Doctor Who - Season 7, 8 & 9 (1970 - 1972)

'Spearhead from Space'

Costume Design by Christine Rawlins

The first serial of the 1970s introduced Liz Shaw (Caroline John), wearing this Pierre Cardin inspired brown and cream dress and jacket; the cream panels and belt are made of a bumpy material. I have a feeling this was bespoke made, thanks to the unusual materials; the 1970s would see more companion outfits being designed and bespoke made rather than bought off the rack, presumably taking notes from The Avengers.

Rawlins also was responsible for designing the look of Jon Pertwee as the Doctor - consisting of a smoking jacket, frilly shirt and Inverness cape - but there's enough images of him online I think! Check out the Making My Third Doctor Costume blog if you want more information on Jon Pertwee's looks throughout his tenure.

'The Ambassadors of Death'

Costume Design by Christine Rawlins

Christine Rawlins was costume designer on all episodes of the seventh season; she was also admamantly not a fan of science-fiction, which made her tasks of realizing the monster suits in 'The Silurians' and the spacesuits in this serial all the more daunting. The three spacesuits were bespoke-made one-piece garments made of a quilted fabric, with zippers down the back.

Due to budget, the gloves and boots were bought, rather than part of the garment like a real spacesuit; there also wasn't enough time or money to make a new spacesuit helmet, so instead the costume department found and repainted helmets previously used in 1969's Moon Zero Two.

Additionally, for this serial she designed a new, more futuristic uniform for the alien-fighting UNIT soldiers, consisting of a collar-less tan zip-up jacket. The jackets look like they were bespoke-made, as I haven't seen any jacket - military or otherwise - that looks like this at all.

'Inferno'

Costume Design by Christine Rawlins

The last serial of the seventh season, and the last Doctor Who serial that Rawlins was costume designer on (she would not return to the series until 1977's 'The Sun Makers') required a uniform to be worn by the fascist parallel universe's version of Liz Shaw; this uniform seems to have been bespoke-made for Caroline John, with a skirt cut very low showing her leather boots.

The only other costume bespoke-made for the serial was the nehru-style white suit worn by Olaf Pooley as the parallel universe's Stahlman, evoking villains of the then-recent James Bond films. Everything else in the serial was bought off the rack, military surplus (UNIT soldiers in WWII parachute smocks) or workwear ('radiation suits' that were just old asbestos fire suits).

'Terror of the Autons'

Costume Design by Ken Trew

Ken Trew designed another nehru-style jacket for Roger Delgado as new villain The Master; the jacket has lining embroidered around the cuffs, and one pocket on the chest. Delgado would wear this costume for most of his appearances in the series.

'The Mind of Evil'

Costume Design by Bobi Bartlett

Most of Katy Manning's costumes as Jo Grant were clothes she had bought from the Biba fashion chain; however some of her costumes were designed and bespoke-made by the assigned costume designer, such as the jacket Manning sported in this serial with straps on the shoulders and a large open collar. In the serial it is always worn unzipped however.

'The Claws of Axos'

Costume Design by Barbara Lane

Costume designer Barbara Lane was tasked with realizing the alien Axons of the title; for their humanoid forms, Lane came up with a onesie made up of a mottled yellow and white material, evoking an organic appearance.

'Colony in Space'

Costume Design by Michael Burdle

Costume designer Michael Burdle was tasked with having to realize a story set on another planet in the future; however, the focus on a group of struggling colonists meant that mostly drab workwear could be used to clothe most of the cast. However, some patterned brown vests and belts were constructed to give a futuristic and 'Western' inspired touch.

The one exception to the colony's earthy colour palette is Nicholas Pennell as the colony's resident agitator Winston, wearing a purple vinyl vest.

The colonists are at war with the Interplanetary Mining Corporation aka IMC, whose solders wear bold uniforms consisting of black and red zip-up jackets with red panelling over the shoulders and a mottled grey-black panel around the chest. The uniform is worn with jackboots, gloves and helmets that were altered with bands of red lining.

The Master turns up in a stolen 'Adjudicator' robe, designed with golden lining around the shoulder boards and a raised collar; very Ming the Merciless.

The Time Lords, briefly seen at the serial's beginning, wear blue and white robes with a circular collar piece; the actors are shot either at a distance or in extreme close-ups, preventing the costumes being seen clearly.

The alien priests of the planet Uxarieus wear very rudimentary costumes, consisting of a sheet with a raised Ming the Merciless-style collar coated in stones; fits given the primitive nature of the aliens.

'The Daemons'

Costume Design by Barbara Lane

A suede suit was designed and made by Barbara Lane for Katy Manning to wear in this serial; the rest of the costume's components past the jacket and trousers were bought.

Lane also made the Satanic priest robe worn by the Master for the serial's supernatural happenings, behind the scenes photos show off the golden checker pattern of the lining, as well as the 'Greek key' pattern of the red fabric.

'Day of the Daleks'

Costume Design by Mary Husband

The Daleks' ape-like Ogron soldiers wear a uniform consisting of a vinyl vest with tubing around the shoulders and collar, worn over a mesh shirt. Worn over the best are wristguards and belt both made of the same brown vinyl material. Some of these costumes were reused by Barbara Kidd for the Ogrons reappearance in 'Frontier in Space'

Also with the Ogrons are human soldiers in similar uniforms, though the vests are narrower and made of a slightly more stiff material; underneath the vests are red or brown patterned tops, that I assume were bought and altered with vinyl wristguards. The uniform is worn with what I assume is some kind of old motorcycle helmet. Some of these vests were also reused for the Ogrons of 'Frontier in Space'.

A deep bottle green nehru-style suit was made for Aubrey Woods as the 'Controller' of the dystopian future Earth, with the manager under his command wearing a grey zip-up jacket with a large open collar.

Resisting the regime are guerilla fighters in futuristic combat fatigues consisting of a custom camouflage patterned nehru-style jacket, caps and large sash belts. Their squad leader Anat (Anna Berry) is distinguished by her jacket having a deep v-collar.

'The Curse of Peladon'

Costume Design by Barbara Lane

Lane designed and made Kary Manning's dress in this serial; designed to partly have her mistaken as a 'princess'. The gown was made of silk with hand-painted floral patterns on the sleeves, chest and skirt bottom; the colourful highlights resemble similar costumes Lane would later design for the women in Blake's 7 first season. Worn over the gown is a velvet red dress.

Peladon is a feudalist planet, with this reinforced by the dress sense of Peladon's nobles. Lane designed a purple hued costume for David Troughton as King Peladon, with fur lining on the cuffs and a stiff white collar. Worn over is a cape made of a wavy blue material. A ceremonial robe with a large Ming the Merciless-esque collar was fabricated; the collar was embedded with coloured stones to appear as gemstones.

A similarly hued robe and cape was made for Geoffrey Toone as Hepesh, Peladon's high priest; the robe is adorned with silvery lining. A robe similar to Hepesh was also made for Henry Gilbert as the doomed chancellor Torbis, with fur on the shoulders and a different style of lining across his chest.

Peladon's soldiers wear a Greco-Roman influenced, but still slightly futuristic, set of armor worn with kilts; the chest armor is segmented, with the commander having more segments.

The Earth ambassador that briefly appears in the last episode wears a black gown, silvery shawl and black hat lined with the same material; I'd imagine only the shawl was made from scratch and the hat altered, simply due to it being made for a very minor character.

'The Sea Devils'

Costume Design by Maggie Fletcher

Fletcher designed and made this white pantsuit with purple highlights and wide lapels; Katy Manning loathed the suit, saying 'it made me feel like a British Rail waiter'. The suit was made of wool, which meant it shrunk if it got wet - and this was a serial filmed in a lot of wet locations!

A shiny patterned cape with silver-painted fasteners was also made for Roger Delgado, always seen worn over his jumper.

'The Mutants'

Costume Design by James Acheson

The first serial to have its costumes designed by the future Oscar-winner; Acheson designed the future humans' garments to be cut like frocks, with angular cut deep collars. The costume designed for Paul Whitsun-Jones as the Marshal consists of a black frock-like jacket is adorned with angular silver lining with a silver panel around the collar and chest.

In some scenes it is worn with a silvery cape, as well as a helmet fitted with silver lining and stars; the helmet, along with those worn by his underlings, had originally appeared in the serials 'Enemy of the World' and 'Fury from the Deep', and would appear once more in the rebooted Doctor Who episode 'End of the World' in 2005.

The soldiers under the Marshal's command wear similar uniforms with a blue-grey chest panel instead and single-strip lining rather than double-strip; their cuffs also do not have the number '58' inscribed like those of the Marshal's jacket.

The Administrator (Geoffrey Palmer) wears a frock coat with the same pattern of lining as the Marshal's jacket, but in gold instead. He also briefly wears it with a glittery golden cape as well.

The investigators sent from Earth are dressed in white judicial robes adorned with golden lining in a similar manner to the other uniforms.

The investigator’s guards wear white jackets also adorned with golden lining in a similar pattern to the investigator's robes; they also wear white versions of the reused Enemy of the World helmets.

The Marshal’s own scientist Jaeger (George Pravda) is in a tan frock coat with brown lining and a brown panel around the collar.

Sondergaard (John Hollis) wears a blue-hued silver spacesuit; this could be a firefighter suit that was altered to be covered in teal colouring, but the helmet definitely had to have been made by the prop department.

The Solonians wear what is most likely borrowed costume stock intended for medieval productions; their horned helmets had previously appeared in a brief sequence of Stanley Kubrick's A Clockwork Orange the year earlier, though I have no idea what film they were originally made for.

However, a costume was designed and made by Acheson for Garrick Hagon as the evolved Solonian Ky, consisting of a silver armor set with large shoulder pads, and a cape. In the episode itself it is obscured with a rainbow effect.

'The Time Monster'

Costume Design by Barbara Lane

Lane designed a woollen jumper and skirt for Katy Manning to wear in this serial; the grey wool is coated in yellow and teal Greek patterned lining around the chest, sleeves and skirt. The rest of the costume, such as the yellow boots, were from Manning's own wardrobe.

The reason for the Greek motif of Jo's main costume is due to most of the story being set on Atlantis; Lane designed a Minoan-style dress for Jo, with a colourful skirt and waistband. The golden-trimmed top has a deep collar showing Manning's chest - but not as much as real Minoan women showed!

Much more ornate is the dress Lane designed for Ingrid Pitt to wear as the Atlantean queen Galleia; her first dress is white and gold design with a wide golden patterned waistband and belt.

Galleia's second outfit is blue with silver and gold trim, with a large panel of silver stripes on the waist and a golden waistband as well; this dress, like the earlier white one, is cut to of course show off Pitt's busty figure!

It's unknown how much of the other Atlantean cast members' costumes were made or just reused costume stock, but the robe worn by Donald Eccles as the priest Krasis was most likely made by Lane for this production, with his cape in red, orange and yellow with golden trim.

Note: the information about the bespoke-made contemporary costumes made for Katy Manning is sourced from Doctor Who Magazine Special 52: Costume Design Special Issue.