One of the main highlights of Mike Hodges' famously vibrant and campy film adaptation of Alex Raymond's comic strip,
Flash Gordon, was always the detailed and colourful costumes, designed by none other than the legendary Italian costume designer Danilo Donati, who had worked on several Italian films under famous directors such as Pier Paolo Pasolini and Federico Fellini. Whilst the original comics, as well as the 1930s serials, had provided ample inspiration for the characters costumes, Donati's designs were far more ornate and detailed than any previous depiction, showcasing his own design flair very clearly.
The evil emperor Ming the Merciless (Max von Sydow) is the most remembered aspect of all of
Flash Gordon, partly thanks in part to the various ornate collared robes and uniforms the character is always wearing. His first outfit is a red gown with a large collar, pointed shoulder pads, and gold lining and trim all over, with regal symbols sewed onto the front and back.
Ming's second uniform, which sadly does not get much screentime, is a black uniform with gold and red lining, worn also with a cape and the regal symbol being much more prominent.
His third costume is once again a crimson robe, this one seemingly intended as a form of leisure wear as its much more loose and flowing than the first one, though still with the large collar and shoulder pads.
Following this he wears a uniform once more, this one intended as a homage to the military uniforms the character would sometimes sport in the original comics and serials - like all the other designs in the movie, this one has detailed golden trim and collars all over, fixed with a black plastic skullcap.
The last costume worn by the character is a tunic with a massive crested collar and more red and gold foil sewed all over the front, and again being worn with a lined cape thats is fixed on part of the tunic itself.
The various officers of Ming's army are all in similar red and gold-lined uniforms consisting of tunics with pointed shoulder pads, the 'star' epaulettes and worn with either two forms of headwear - some are seen wearing black and gold rounded helmets, but most wear headgear that slightly resembles riding helmets. Also of note are how many of the tunics have sewed shining patterns on the fronts, all individual patterns too. Some other uniformed troops are seen but in uniforms of lined blue tunics and black trousers.
The first of Ming's soldiers that the film depicts are his royal guards, which are all in detailed red and gold armour suits (that slightly resemble samurai armour) and fixed with ominous golden skull masks.
Seen with the royal guards are another form of masked soldier, the red-robed gas masked palace guards. The gas masks are evidently made of fabric (with epaulettes fixed on the sides too), and the robes are long and flowing, and worn with leather belts.
During the film's first sequence in Ming's palace, Flash and friends face off against some thugs for Ming's amusement, these figures all in red lycra bodysuits with red and gold lined helmets, shoulders and arm padding. Similar to most of Ming's servants, these sports thugs are all in masks, these ones carved to resemble grimacing faces.
The last of the uniforms worn by Ming's army are those of the gunship crews, who are in golden padded shirts worn with red tunics over them, again with leather belts and the symbol of Ming's dynasty on the front. Like the common soldiers and secret police they wear the domed helmets, but these have red lining rather than gold, and worn with the same golden skull masks as the royal guards.
Helping Ming's rule are his evil secret police, run by the masked General Klytus (Peter Wyngarde), who is always in a hooded black robe with gold lining (adorned with the compass-like symbol of the military police, with is on the triangular piece hanging on the front) as well as his golden mask and mechanical arm.
Klytus' deputy, General Kala (Mariangela Melato) is also in a black leather uniform fixed with golden trim, as well as being worn with variant of the domed helmet but with a large crest fixed on the front. as well as the top of the costume being fitted with pointed shoulder pads, and the uniform also being worn with high-heeled boots.
The agents of the secret police meanwhile are all in black uniforms with spiked shoulder pads and leather straps over the tunic, as well as a badge of the secret police's compass symbol. All the agents are in gold-lined domed helmets (similar to the standard soldiers) with the exception of the monitor station workers, who all wear rectangular light-up goggles.
Ming's daughter, Princess Aura (Ornella Muti) sports almost as many outfits as her father, her first one being a lurid skimpy golden dress of carved pieces and a short skirt that still exposes one leg, which is also adorned with the shining fragments. Worn with this dress is a headpiece with several needle-like fixtures sticking out. During her initial introduction, she is also carrying a multicoloured feather boa.
Aura's second outfit is of a similar colour scheme to Ming's during the same scene, and is more covered than her first one, but with the half-skirt still present, with golden trim, and with a similar red-jewelled headdress. Like Ming's outfit, this costume is only seen briefly.
Aura's third outfit is a uniform, and in the same colour scheme as most of her father's ie red and gold. This uniform is of a classic space opera 'v' design, with the sides being adorned with golden trim, and even red boots and a symbol-adorned headband.
The next outfit she sports is a pink dress worn with a pink cape (fixed with pointed shoulder pads, like a lot of costumes in the film) and golden tiara and belt buckle -- during some scenes, the dress is worn without the cape.
Her last outfit is actually almost identical to her very first one, only this time it is silver rather than golden, and worn with flowing ribbons - but other details, such as the leg fixtures and headpiece are pretty much identical.
When Aura helps him escape Ming's palace, Flash Gordon (Sam J. Jones) wears a uniform (similar in design to the uniforms of Ming's soldiers) consisting of a gold-patterned red tunic and black trousers and boots.
After the fight in the Hawkmen's city, Flash then wears a red and black vest with a glittery crest stitched in the centre.
Flash's fellow Earthling Hans Zarkov (Topol) is also made to wear a similar uniform, but with a more simple tunic instead.
Flash's companion Dale Arden (Melody Anderson) is made to be Ming's bride and during so is made to wear many dresses, almost all of them with a wide jewelled tiara. Her first outfit consists of a shiny red dress worn with a red tiara.
Dale's second costume is a more simple silver dress, worn with a silver version of the tiara, with a different arrangement of the forehead beads.
When recaptured, she is then wearing another more simplistic gown, consisting of a two-tone teal and pink colourscheme, with golden trim, fastener and a small golden tiara.
The last costume she wears for the marriage itself is a ridged black dress fitted with gloves and ornate spiked shoulder pads, and a much larger black version of the headdress.
Many of the maids of Ming's palace are in equally ornate outfits, with the head maid wearing a gold and green dress worn with a large headpiece fastened with coloured streamers.
Another servant girl is in a slightly different dress, which gets more screentime as Dale manages to steal and wear the dress for a good deal of running time. The headdress is more simple, but the top of the dress is intricate, and the colour scheme is a shining orange with golden trim.
The other maids are seen and they are all dressed identically, in rounded headpieces adorned with jewellery, worn with skimpy golden tops and miniskirts.
Prince Barin (Timothy Dalton) of the Arborians is first seen in a uniform consisting of a brown golden-lined tunic with its shoulders and arms made of a more ridged material, and a shining green emblem sewed onto the chest. The uniform is finished with dark green trousers and a green cape.
For the rest of the film however, he is in a less shiny outfit consisting of a woven green and golden-lined tunic, worn with green trousers and boots, with a buckled belt - this design was evidently intended to call back the popular image of such characters as Robin Hood, thanks in part to the forest theme of Barin and his people.
A few other Arborians are seen, in more simplistic uniforms consisting of green tunics, some in a similarly woven material, which is also used for the robe of the Arborian priest, who also wears a simple medallion over it.
The solders under Barin's command are in simple green uniforms consisting of shirts similar to Barin's, worn with green-lined helmets.
One of the film's most iconic characters was Prince Vultan, played by Brian Blessed giving another bombastic performance. Vultan a black leather armor piece, fitted with feather-like patterns of gold and black sculpted onto it. Completing the outfit is the horned helmet as well as, of course, the massive golden wings on the back. Vultan's Hawkmen are all in more simplistic outfits, with worn with flowing masked helmets - the exceptions being his two dignitaries including Luro (John Hallam) and Biro (Ted Carroll) who do not wear the helmets and have golden pieces fixed on their leather straps to distinguish them from the rest.
Whilst all the Hawkmen are dressed identically, their women are all in streaked coloured dresses (with Vultan's daughter even being in a small one!), a good few of them worn with beak-like headdresses and of course all with the wings.
Early in the palace sequence, Ming executes Prince Thun (Goerge Harris) of Ardentia, who is is in a golden outfit consisting of a towering crown, golden chain ribbons and shoulder plates. His aides are in similar outfits of mostly gold (but also orange and red), all wearing wide crested headpieces as well.
During the marriage ceremony, Ming and Arden are ministered by the high priest Zogi (Philip Stone) whose outfit sadly isn't seen in full properly, but is a black and silver design again with a large collar and a shining crest on the front, Zogi's aides are in shining black and silver hooded cloaks worn with patterned black masks.
Aura's pet servant Fellini (Deep Roy) is in another standout design, a lined purple and golden shirt fixed with large wide boards on the legs, making it resemble a flattened dress. Completing Fellini's outfit is the red and gold helmet which is fixed with a red triangular piece.
In the scenes at Ming's palace, we see many dwarves wearing board-like outfits, worn with coloured men-yoroi masks and helmets. These are some of my favorite designs in the film, and its a shame we don't see more of them - every one of them is their own colour, barring the ceremonial uniforms which are in red and gold trim like all of Ming's servants. One of these costumes was
restored by Tom Spina, who specializes in restoring props and costumes to their former glory, and is where the first image is from!
Lastly, are the various alien dignitaries and representatives seen during the sequences in Ming's throne room, which are just as ornate and vibrant as those of the main cast. It would take too long to list them all, but personally, highlights would have to include the masked figures in black and white furs, the golden masked priests with 'bears' of coins hanging down, and the women in the fish-scaled bubble suits. A pity that there wasn't more behind the scenes photos showing these lovely designs in full!
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