Saturday 20 August 2022

Aelita: Queen of Mars (1924)

Costume Design by: Aleksandra Ekster ( A member of the Russian Futurist art movement who, in addition to painting, was a costume designer for several theatre productions - the linked Wikiart gallery shows her lovely abstract costume paintings )

It's been getting to the end of this phase of the blog's journey - almost all productions that could be labeled as properly 'futuristic', as well as the bulk of notable 'fantasy' productions have been covered, meaning that if this was still 'SciFi & Fantasy Costumes Gallery' the entire blog would be packing it in - but that was before I decided to expand the focus to be costume design in general. Still, as a sort of eulogy to having to do any more 'futuristic' productions, I thought it would be really fitting to do the earliest science-fiction film - one whose scale of visual imagination hasn't been matched since, honestly.

Aelita, rumored to have been an inspiration on Fritz Lang's Metropolis, mostly takes place in the then-contemporary Soviet Union, with only a small fraction of the runtime taking place on the strange and beautiful world of Mars. The sets and costumes are delightful, with the costumes having been designed by Russian avant-garde painter Aleksanda Ekster. The alien costumes of Aelita are in line with Ekster's general style, consisting of geometrical shapes often made out of synthetic materials - it's a shame almost that the film is in black and white, as the costume paintings show that they were intended to be very colourful. Firstly there is this dress worn by the titular Aelita's maidservant, cut with bold lining down the waist and legs and worn with a wire headdress.

Another dress worn in this film is this striped deal, which has been fastened with spindly metallic rods around the legs, as if it was a Victorian dress' bustle that had the fabric removed, exposing the underside - and again worn with a curved, metallic headdress.
The titular Aelita (Yuliya Solntseva) meanwhile sports this stunning dress, fitted with panelling that extends over one side of the dress, as well as three circular shapes on the chest - completing this is another extravagant, abstract headdress with rods extending in all directions, like a parody of a wide-brimmed hat almost.
The men of Martian aristocracy are dressed no less strange, with this particular character wearing transparent panelling over his robe, worn with a hat that is made out of a similar material - it seems like the costumes really are a essentially the fashion of 'ancient' cultures (mythologized in early silent films such as Cabiria) seen through the vision of modernist art.
This design sense is seen clearly in the regal garb sported by the Martian's ruler, whose outfit has a more asymmetrical cut to it, and is worn with what seems to be a bulky pad on one of his arms.
Some other notable members of the Martian aristocracy include the astronomer who wears a false beard (like these worn by the nobility of ancient Egypt, perhaps?) made of a geometrical shard of material(!), as well as various nobles wearing angular helmets and gowns with a circular motif on the chest and a squiggly line going downwards.
The soldiers of the Martian society are in revealing uniforms worn with fantastically bizarre helmets, with circular pieces over the shoulders that makes them almost look more like mechanical objects more than human beings, and with the helmet having a sweeping crest of sorts on the top. Apologies for the use of the watermarked stock image, but it was the best one I could find.
The various slavedrivers of Martian society are dressed similarly revealing as the guards, but this time wear more cube-shaped helmets instead, that appear to be a little translucent as well - the various oppressed workers also wear such helmets, but with rags.

Just Imagine (1930)

Costume Design by: Alice O'Neill and Dolly Tree

Most early science-fiction films up to the 1950s were actually pretty shy of imagining how the future denizens would dress. Metropolis, that classic of science-fiction cinema, does have two gorgeous dresses worn by Brigitte Helm, but they are both in a dream sequence and are historical pastiches at that anyway. High Treason and L'inhumaine, two other notable futuristic films from the 20s, did have some stylish 1920s looks, didn't really intend to be that 'futuristic' with their fashions either. And the various Flash Gordon and Buck Rogers serials of the 1930s were honestly very, very cheap with their ideas of 'futuristic' fashion too.

One of the exceptions to this barring 1924's Aelita: Queen of Mars and 1936's Things to Come, is Just Imagine, a light-hearted musical comedy, whose most futuristic outfits were seen when the cast travel to Mars (always a fixture in very early science-fiction) - the costumes for the Martians here almost rival these of Aelita in just how out-there they are, with special mention going to the Martian queen's silvery, jagged dress! Again, when I find a better quality copy, I will update this section, but really what can I say that these images don't so far?

Farscape (1999 - 2003)

Costume Design by: Terry Ryan ( notable efforts: Harlequin (1980), The Salute of the Jugger (1989), King Kong (2005) )

Very much a product of its time, with lots of 'tude and leather, Farscape was an attempt at a 'darker' space opera, following on from Lexx before it (and was actually rivals with it when both shows were still airing, or rather their respective fandoms were - which calm down dears, both your favorite shows are horned-up bootlegs of Blake's 7!) The show's plot focused on the lost Earth astronaut John Chrichton, stuck in another part of the universe and embroiled with a group of prisoners who were on the run from the fascist 'Peacekeepers', having stolen the living spaceship 'Moya' in the process. I'll admit, the costume design of Farscape isn't quite as up-to-scratch as its set designs or creature effects - there are plenty of grubby trampy outfits, or deeply unappealing leather getups going way too crazy with the buckles as seen in so many terrible videogame character designs. I don't know how much the costume designs were from Terry Ryan's own sketches, or the various production artists working on the show, but compared to certain other series that were airing at the same time (ie, like Andromeda, which I'm sorry, had some of the worst costume design in a scifi work yet until the Marvel Cinematic Universe came along), Farscape at least delivered some interesting outfits at times. Anyway...out of the recurring cast members (who aren't puppets), the most notable in terms of outfits is the 'Luxan' warrior D'Argo (Anthony Simcoe), who wears a variety of reddish tunics throughout the series, often with padded shoulders - the most interesting variations to me are the studded deal worn at the end of the series, 'The Peacekeeper Wars', as well as the dark-hued variant worn in the third series that has armor fitted on the shoulders.

'Throne for a Loss'

In this episode, the Moya gets attacked by 'Tavleks', alien warriors wearing mesh jumpsuits and bulky armor with large shoulder pads and helmets - honestly, I actually have a soft spot for these armor suits (hence why I'm including them) as they feel a bit more like something you'd get in Metal Hurlant/Heavy Metal - the relative cheapness of the actual costume, where you can see the 'armor' bend thanks to being made out of foam, is also charming.

'Back and Back and Back to the Future'

This episode had the Moya encounter the untrustworthy Matala (Lisa Hensley), who wears an orange and black bolero jacket with raised shoulders and red lining, worn over a black vinyl top and trousers of the same colour scheme and material as the jacket, though slightly ruining the look is an out of place bodice worn around the waist.
Travelling with Matala is the aged Verell (John Clayton), who wears a coat made up of red-lined black panels of a synthetic material.

'Thank God It's Friday, Again'

D'Argo spends this episode thinking he has finally settled down in a society that isn't all it seems, and thus swaps his warrior garb for a rather charming red and pink coloured vest, covered in rectangular strips over the sides.

'That Old Black Magic'

In this episode the Moya's crew end up in the sights of the evil Maldis (Chris Haywood), an alien vampire of sorts of course wears a vinyl riff on Jacobean attire, with a ruff collar and all too!

'Till the Blood Runs Clear'

In this episode Crichton runs afoul of two alien bounty hunters who both wear bulky armor fitted with orange and black thread, giving them a vaguely 'tribal' appearance.

'Rhapsody in Blue'

This episode involved the Moya coming across a group of 'Delvians', the species of one of their crewmmembers, Zhaan (Virginia Hey) - I don't really consider Zhaan's other costumes in the series really worth noting, as often they tend to be very plain gowns, with her traditional garb in this episode being one of the most intersting outfits she sports in the whole show honestly.
The Delvian colony are led by Tahleen (Kate Raison), who sports a cyan and golden dress with golden segments around the shoulders and waist, as well as golden lining adorning the gown part of it as well.
Another missionary is Tuzak (Max Phipps), who wears a robe of a deep blue shade, again with golden ornamentation all over it, and worn with a sort of turban as well.
Other missionaries on the colony also keep to the blue and gold colouscheme, with one highlight being the golden lined blue vest that can be seen here.

'Jeremiah Crichton'

This episode had the Moya's crew running into the Acquarans, a group of colonists who had reverted to a tribal way of life, and now all wear gowns and headgear all in orange and purple. The various warriors wear spiked shoulder-pads with primitive helmets as well.

'Durka Returns'

This episode involved the Peacekeeper torturer Durka (David Wheeler) having supposedly been reformed by the 'Nebari', a species of aliens obsessed with order and uniformity, which is reflected in their fashion sense being obsessed with such colours as grey and black - Durka sports a coat with grey lining around the collar and shoulders, which itself is worn under a robe that also has grey lining around the shoulders.
Similarly dressed is Salis (Tiriel Mora), a member of the Nebari government, and sports a cloak with light grey panelling over the shoulders, itself worn over a ridged black tunic.
This episode also introduced the character of Chiana (Gigi Edgley), who for this season wears an absolutely hideous top and trousers that looks like its made out of mildow, so I shan't cover it. More appealing are the spandex and vinyl catsuits she wears in later seasons, with the later seasons even adding a subtle striped pattern between the different shades of grey.

'Nerve'

This episode introduced Scorpius (Wayne Pygram), the Peacekeeper commander, recurring villain and possibly most iconic character from the series - but there really isn't that much new to say about his costume is there, especially with all the publicity photos about...
However, Scorpius has a female assistant who dresses a bit similarly in a latex catsuit, bodice and scale-like skirt worn over it.
Most of the Peacekeeper uniforms just aren't that interesting to me really, often being ridged leather coats covered in unfitting straps - this can be sort of seen here in one of the more interesting uniforms that Crichton disguises himself in, being a red and black leather tunic with an asymmetrical pattern, but with some of these nasty straps still over it...
The various Peacekeeper soldiers also vary in quality - there's some that are just in leather biker jackets with ugly armor over them, and others that are just unappealing brown leather uniforms covered in more of the wretched buckle straps. However, the soldiers under Scorpius' command actually are fairly interesting designs, clad in red and black shiny armor and padded vinyl trousers. These designs look far more pulp scifi/comic book than the usual sort of scifi soldiers that were cropping up in 2000s scifi media, so they get a pass from me.

'Vita Mortis'

In this episode, D'Argo attempts to help the aged Nilaam (Melissa Jaffer), and in doing so performs a ritual where they both wear colourful robes covered in shiny intricate lining - Nilaam's is distinguished with a golden bodice, which honestly ruins the flow of the design in my opinion.

'Dream a Little Dream'

In this episode, the Moya's crew ends up on the planet Litigara, a planet whose denizens are all lawyers - I'm not sure that has anything to do with why they all wear skullcaps with their attire, such as Finzzi (Simone Kessell) wearing one with her coat made out of a shiny golden material.
More typically dressed is Ja Rhumann (Steve Jacobs), who wears a red jacket with ridged material on the lapels, again worn with the skullcap. The only member of this planet's society we see who doesn't wear this cap is the unnamed judge, who wears a disc-like headpiece instead.

'A Clockwork Nebari'

In this episode, the Moya is visited by the callous Varla (Skye Wansey), a Nebari official who is tracking down Chiana, and has arrived with her aide Meelak (Malcolm Kennard) - both Varla and Meelak are in ridged grey jumpsuits with fixed coat-tails and raised collars, Varla's being designed in a way that makes her look like more 'evil' as often seen on the dresses of evil fantasy queens and whatnot.

'Liars, Guns and Money'

This trilogy of episodes focusing on a bank robbery that goes wrong, introduced D'argo's son Jothee (Matt Newton), who wears a tan padded jumpsuit with panels around the chest and collar, as well as raised shoulders - it is also worn with a sash around the waist.
As part of the plan, Zhaan (Virginia Hey) sports a disguise consisting of a sort of jumpsuit with shoulder boards, flares, and a translucent panel in the chest to sort of show the cleavage.
Also sporting a new outfit is the Peacekeeper officer Miklo Braca (David Franklin), who wears a black jumpsuit with vinyl sleeves and shoulder boards, adorned with red lining as well as a red panel on one shoulder - again, a lot of the Peacekeeper uniforms are fairly unappealing to me, with this one being an exception.
The bank being raided, the Shadow Depository, is staffed by several officials who all wear silvery jumpsuits made of a pattern that slightly resembles snakeskin, with a large panel over the chest and shoulders.
The various guards of the Depository are dressed similar, though their jumpsuits are of a brown colour and fitted with hoods and goggles - they look rather retro-futuristic in a pleasing way, in my opinion.

'Die Me, Dichotomy'

This episode featured the Moya crew attempting to have Crichton operated on, with the medical outfit he is treated at being partly run by the sleazy Grunchlk (Hugh Keays-Byrne), who sports a grey tunic with translucent strips on the sides, with large panels fixed on the waist as well.

'Self-Inflicted Wounds'

This episode introduced the new Moya crewmember Jool (Tammy MacIntosh) who wears some of the more strikingly designed outfits, usually being dresses made out of cut leather with metallic lining around the edges - there's enough publicity photos of her two other dresses, but the screenshots are of the last dress that she then sported for the entirety of the fourth series.
Another member of Jool's species is also seen in this episode, wearing similar leather panels over a mottled black jumpsuit.
This episode also involved the Moya crew running into the 'Pathfinders', who wear silver ridged tunics over silvery skirts.

'...Different Destinations'

I haven't really included Stark (Paul Goddard) here yet mostly on account of his outfits just being totally grubby tattered garb, but in this episode he does sport a more interesting outfit in this episode, consisting of a brown jacket with raised shoulders, worn over lined red trousers.

'Thanks for Sharing'

In this episode the Moya's crew end up on the planet Kanvia, whose denizens are all dressed in a variety of black vinyl-adorned outfits, such as the one sported by Tolven (Sandy Winton) who wears a black patterned jumpsuit with a vinyl panel over the chest and shoulders - the guards under his command are dressed similarly with their chest panels just having shiny lining.
The planet's leader, Pralanoth (Robert Brunning), is never seen standing up, but his outfit seems to be a tunic with panels around the chest, designed in a rather 'space age' fashion, with studs all over.
The women of the planet, such as Sarova (Rebecca Gibney) are meanwhile just in black dresses with vinyl panelling around the chest and shoulders, worn with vinyl gloves and boots - Sarova's is distinguished by the collar having a white band.

'Scratch 'n Sniff'

This episode involved members of the Moya's crew being embroiled in the struggles of intergalactic drug traffickers, partly thanks to the obnoxious Raxil (Francesa Buller), who wears a mesh-lined jumpsuit with a rounded collar piece.
D'Argo is also briefly siguised as a different alien, wearing a leather padded tunic that has tassles fixed on the the large shoulders

'Promises'

This episode involved the Moya's crew running into the 'Lukythians', who wear silvery jackets and trousers with white lining and open collars, and the guards having thick bands over the shoulders.

'Bringing Home the Beacon'

In this episode, Chiana disguises herself as a blue-skinned alien wearing a cyan bolero jacket and trousers with black vinyl lining - the bolero jacket is fitted with a large collar and worn over a vinyl top.

'We're So Screwed'

This episode had the cast attempting to stop an alliance between the Peacekeepers and the equally oppressive Scarrans, which is being initiated by the Peacekeeper commandant Mele-On Grayza (Rebecca Riggs) - she had actually appeared in episodes before this, but this was the optiminal place to bring her up. Grayza's garb consists of a high-collared black tailcoat worn over black tights, with the coat being worn over an open shirt that exposes her cleavage - one of the more risque costumes of the series.
I've neglected to cover the Scarrans themselves as their rather fiddly armor suits were actually the work of the special effects departments rather than the costume department, which no wonder given how fiddly they look! The Scarrans have an array of servants working under them which are more worthy of inclusion, such as the Kalish who wear brown jumpsuits with a top half made of vinyl, and designed in a rather pleasingly retro-futuristic fashion with tubing and a 'v' panel. The chief technician on their spaceship wears a vinyl smock with the same tubing and v panel over it.
There are also the Charrids, a species of warriors working also for the Scarrans. all wearing identical wide-shouldered armor suits, with raised collars - the armor is no doubt made of a synthetic material, and is coated with a paint that makes it look mottled as if it was covered in lichen. The most striking aspect of the armor suits are the sloped helmets fitted with trailing strands akin to hair, which call to mind the design of the titular monster from Predator.

'The Peacekeeper Wars'

The finale of the Farscape series didn't have much in the way of notable outfits except for this outfit worn by a returning Ka Jothee (Nathaniel Dean), which is a red padded tunic with studded armor shoulderpads and belt, with wristguards and boots also being covered in studs.