Doctor Who - Season 12 (1974)

'Robot'

Costume Design by James Acheson

It was Acheson who was responsible for inventing Tom Baker's look as the new Doctor; as Acheson himself described it to the fanzine In-Vision; 'It was more eccentric, not flamboyant. Pertwee was very flamboyant, but whereas Pertwee was much more the sartorial, frilly, velvety, greying Doctor Who, Baker was this much more manic, scarecrow-like, slightly more dangerous Doctor Who.'

One inspiration for Acheson's vision of the new Doctor came from the French painter Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, in particular his posters for Aristide Bruant's cabaret show. The bold red scarf and wide-brimmed hat influenced the look of Tom Baker's costume.

Of course, an amusing and oft-repeated detail about Baker's costume is how one of its most iconic elements - the scarf - came about by accident. Acheson had Begonia Pope, a knitter, make a scarf for him, but she accidentally used up all the wool Acheson gave her, resulting in a massively long scarf. Baker and the production team loved the scarf, and so it remained part of the costume.

The 'poet fedora' was bespoke-made by Royal Hatters of Herbert Johnson, who also made Patrick Macnee's bowler hats in The Avengers, and Harrison Ford's fedoras in the Indiana Jones films. I would imagine the shooting jacket, trousers and waistcoat were also custom-made items; in this this sketch by Acheson, one of his notes suggests that Begonia Pope knitted the waistcoat.

Costume Reuse note: There is a brief sequence where Baker sports costumes from the wardrobe stock; one of them is the King of Hearts costume from the 1971 film adaptation of Alice in Wonderland. The clown costume and Viking costume were also no doubt from other productions, but which ones?

I also suspect that the fascistic uniforms worn by Patricia Maynard as Miss Winters and her 'Scientific Reform Society' thugs were custom-made as well. Not only do the fabric and buttons on the differing uniforms match, but these don't resemble any real-world military or civilian uniform of the era.

'The Ark in Space'

Costume Design by Barbara Kidd

The crew of the 'Nerva' space station all sport white uniforms consisting of flared trousers and zip-up jackets. The jackets have a panel over the shoulders (a design trait Kidd was fond of in her futuristic costume designs) with coloured piping around the edges. The colour-coded uniforms were likely a nod to Star Trek.

'The Sontaran Experiment'

Costume Design by Barbara Kidd

The human astronauts wear zip-up jumpsuits with a cloth collar, indicating where a spacesuit helmet would go. Judging by one of the surviving jumpsuits, they were fabricated at the Morris Angel & Son costumiers.

Costume Reuse note: The Sontaran Styre's spacesuit costume is just a reuse of the Sontaran Linx costume made by James Acheson for 'The Time Warrior', albeit with a new collar and helmet.

'Genesis of the Daleks'

Costume Design by Barbara Kidd

This dystopian serial starts with an unnamed Time Lord sent to give the Doctor his mission, wearing an ominous high-collared black robe – apparently this costume design was inspired by the depiction of Death in The Seventh Seal.

Due to the setting, most of the cast are in uniforms with the Kaleds wearing buttonless black jackets and breeches; the design of the jackets feels slightly inspired by WWI Royal Flying Corps jackets, with a more sloping cut.

The rest of the Kaled Elite wear futuristic jackets with sloping zips and round collars; its very hard to see the zippers and collars thanks to the video quality and dark lighting. The rest of the costume components, such as the belts, riding breeches and jackboots, were no doubt bought.

At least two futuristic vinyl labcoats were made for Kaled Elite's scientists, as well as for Michael Wisher to wear as Davros; Davros' jacket seemingly goes down much longer like a smock, or possibly by a Howie-style surgical robe.

The opposing Thals meanwhile have green as their signature colour, but only the Thal leaders wear bespoke-made costumes consisting of smart wraparound green jackets (worn over turtleneck jumpers) and trousers.

I am fairly sure the radiation suits worn by the rocket silo guards were bespoke made - the shiny material doesn't match any real fire suit, and the shoulders are ribbed and cut to let the sleeves out.

The last of Kidd's costume duties went to making the tattered rags worn by the 'Muto' scavengers on Skaro's surface. All of the other Skaro performers wear a variety of bought utilitarian clothes; overalls, dungarees, dentist scrubs, fencing outfits (dyed green to match the dungarees), and military surplus.

'Revenge of the Cybermen'

Costume Design by Prue Handley

The costume budget of this serial went to the Cybermen and their enemies the Vogans. The Cyberment had not appeared since 1968's 'The Invasion', and the costumes were in no state to be reused. Costume designer Prue Handley also felt that the Cyberment costumes in 'The Invasion' were too obviously altered swimwear.

Handley instead had a set of futuristic zip-up jackets and flared trousers fabricated in a silvery-painted material, with the assorted 'hard parts', such as the helmet and chest unit, being made by sculptor Allister Bowtell.

To contrast with the Cybermen's silver costumes, the Vogan costumes utilized gold. Vogan noble Vorus (David Collings) sports the serials flashiest outfit – the Vogans are associated with gold and this motif is plainly demonstrated by his chain-mail like underclothes and symmetrical chest piece.

Costume Reuse note #1: Vorus' tunic was reworn by a bit-part performer in the Blake's 7 episode 'Warlord'.

Costume Reuse note #2: The 'Interplanetary Space Command' officers wear the beige 'Ike'-style jackets originally made by Christine Rawlins for the UNIT soldiers in 'Spearhead from Space'.

The soldiers under Vorus’ command wear similar outfits to him, minus the more ornate patterns, but still keeping up a pleasant symmetry.

The Chief Councillor of the Vogans, Tyrus (Kevin Stoney) is opposed to Vorus, and this opposition is also demonstrated in his own dress, which is much less officious or ornate as Vorus, instead essentially being a mesh gown adorned with golden pieces.

The guards loyal to Tyrus also are in similar golden gowns, but with belts and no added pieces, with their commander only distinguished by his belt having more 'gem' pieces stuck on.