Thursday, 10 June 2021

Doctor Who - Season 10 (1972) & 11 (1973)

'The Three Doctors'

Costume Design by James Acheson

A blue woolen dress was designed and made by Acheson for Katy Manning to wear; according to Manning, it was knitted by the same person who created her woolen dress in 'The Time Monster' a year earlier. The rest of the costume was bought, the blue fur coat was from Biba.
The Time Lords appear again with new costumes consisting of black tunics with pointed collar plates and white vinyl cuffs. The elder Time Lords wear capes of a blue material (that looks suspiciously like curtain fabric) with wide shoulder boards also made of white vinyl.
The villain Omega (Stephen Thorne) was designed by Acheson as wearing a blue sparkly robe with metallic armor with a grimacing mask; the first of such designs Acheson would realize in his career in such films as Time Bandits, Brazil and Highlander.

The costume's 'hard parts' (ie the helmet, chestplate and wristguards) were made by freelance sculptor Allister Bowtell who Acheson often contracted (such as for the Mutt costumes in 'The Mutants' and the Master's zombie mask in 'The Deadly Assassin').

Costume Reuse note: The chestplate and wristguards were reused on an extra in the Blake's 7 episode 'Assassin'.

'Carnival of Monsters'

Costume Design by James Acheson

Achesone designed a new costume for Pertwee, consisting of a bottle-green velvet smoking jacket, worn with a new Inverness cape with orange silk lining its insides.
The alien entertainers Vorg (Leslie Dwyer) and Shirna (Cheryl Hall) both wear pastel-coloured outfits. Vorg wears a tailcoat made of a mottled blue-ish materical coated with colourful disks over the lapels, cuffs and pockets. Under the tailcoat is a zip-up pink and green waistcoat with golden lining and a shiny patterned shirt.
Shirna meanwhile is a multicoloured leotard of green and pink, with blue leggings and pink gloves; little ping-pong balls cover her costume.
Vorg and Shirna briefly wear silver-lined grey spacesuits with no helmets; as far as I know these did not appear in any earlier UK-filmed scifi productions, so most likely they were made by Acheson for this serial.

Costume Reuse note; One of the spacesuits was worn by an extra in the opening sequence of the later serial 'Resurrection of the Daleks'.

The bureaucrats of Inter Minor wear a uniform consisting of a top with quilted high collars and sleeves, worn over spandex trousers with white lining; an armor chestplate and wristguards complete the costume.

The immigration control chairman is distinguished by this chestplate having more lines (in a similar manner to the uniforms Acheson had previously designed for 'The Mutants' and 'The Three Doctors') and a grey robe of a quilted material.

Costume Reuse note: The robe was reused in the later serial 'Meglos', as well as very briefly on an extra in 'Dragonfire'.

The ‘functionaries’ of Inter Minor wear uniforms consisting of a large foam piece covered in tubing; the sleeves and leggings also have tubing around the end.

'Frontier in Space'

Costume Design by Barbara Kidd

Kidd's costume designs for this serial took inspiration from the visuals of space opera fare such as Dan Dare, Flash Gordon or Buck Rogers; the women's dresses all have wide collars, with Vera Fusek wearing an orange dress with a short cape as the Earth's president.
Fusek later wears a less cliched, and in my opinion more elegant, pale blue dress with glittery lining around the collar; it is worn with a cape of the same material, with lining on the shoulders.
The men wear similarly space age costumes; a green tunic with a shiny chest panel and collar was designed for Michael Hawkins as General Williams. A futuristic helmet and shoulder pads were also made, evoking futuristic armor.

Costume Reuse note; The various extras playing Earth soldiers wear fencing uniforms that have been dyed blue or green, with padded 'armor' shoulder pads, wristguards and ankle guards worn over them. The spacesuits are racing jumpsuits worn with the same wristguards/ankleguards and spacesuit helmets reused from Pathfinders to Mars. The penal colony uniforms are karate gis dyed blue.

A similar jacket was designed for Roger Delgado to wear as the Master impersonating a police commissioner; this jacket is of a darker and shinier material, but with a similarly raised collar.
Kidd also designed the costumes of the Draconians, their costumes taking inspiration from Japanese garb as well as their reptilian basis in the script; the Draconian nobles' robes are green with belts, curved threading on the chest, and larg shoulder pads painted to have an organic, scale-like texture.

Costume Reuse note: One of the Draconian costumes was reused on an extra in 'Destiny of the Daleks' a few years later.

The Draconian emperor wears a similar robe made of a shiny fabric of a deeper green colour, with larger and more pointed shoulder pads; he also wears a larger, golden sash held by green and blue straps.
The Draconian soldiers wear robes of a looser cut, with their shoulder pads brounded downwards.

'Planet of the Daleks'

Costume Design by Hazel Pethig

Pethig designed an entirely new costume for Pertwee's Doctor to wear; this new suit was constructed by Anthony J. Hewitt, a Savile Row tailor. Unlike Pertwee's other costumes, this jacket was double-breasted.
Hewitt with the 'Planet of the Daleks' suit.
Several tan spacesuits were made for the Thal soldiers, with tubed material around the shoulders and cuffs. These were made for the production, not reused from any earlier ones.

Costume Reuse note: One of the Pathfinders to Mars helmets, painted white, is worn with one of the suits briefly. One of the spacesuits was reused in the serial 'The Android Invasion' a few years later.

'The Green Death'

Costume Design by Barbara Kidd

Kidd designed another velvet smoking jacket for Pertwee to wear in this serial; the new jacket is black in colour, with red lining around the lapels.

'The Time Warrior'

Costume Design by James Acheson

This serial was set in the Middle Ages; no doubt while the extras and bit-parts were all in reused wardrobe stock, the principal cast members had their costumes made, such as the tunic sported by Elisabeth Sladen as new companion Sarah Jane Smith.
Acheson also designed and made costumes for David Daker and John J. Carney as the warlord Irongron and his deputy Bloodaxe. Irongron costume is made of a green and brown striped colour scheme, with studs and plates adorning different sides of the tunic. Bloodaxes's tunic is carmine in colour, with studs all over.
The 'star warrior' Linx was designed by Acheson to resemble a futuristic knight, with a large domed chrome helmet; padding was placed inside the costume's chest to make the Sontaran look more muscular than actor Kevin Lindsay actually was.

The collar was also much wider than Lindsay's own neck, instead being measured up to the prosthetic makeup John Friedlander sculpted, that itself was also based on Acheson's design.

Acheson designed another futuristic knight costume, consisting of a studded tunic made of a silvery quilted material with large shoulder pads with a metallic belt; the anachronistic look is justified as the knight was a robot made by Linx, and ergo would not be 'accurate'.

'Invasion of the Dinosaurs'

Costume Design by Barbara Kidd

For this serial, Kidd designed a new smoking jacket and Inverness cape to be worn by Pertwee; the new jacket was blue, with the Inverness cape being grey with blue silk as the inner lining.
At least one other costume was designed for Carmen Silvar to wear as Ruth, leader of the 'Golden Age' cult wishing to leave Earth; the folk-inspired design probably was a jab at the hippy movement, with the modern textures giving it a futuristic touch.

Costume Reuse note: The tunic was worn again by Derek Farr in the Blake's 7 episode 'Orac'. The spacesuit seen briefly in this serial was reused from Moonbase 3.

'Death to the Daleks'

Costume Design by L. Rowland-Warne

Rowland-Warne designed several futuristic uniforms for the stranded Earth spaceship crew; men wear blue trousers and jackets with curved flat collars, while the one female member Jill Tarrant (Joy Harrison) wears a lighter coloured uniform with a puffy sleeved jacket and flared trousers.
Rowland-Warne also made the rudimentary clothing worn by the Exxilon natives, as well as tabard-like outfits worn by the mummy-like 'Antibody' guards. The natives' tattered robes were made from cheese-cloth and were painted in latex to give a rock-like appearance. Presumably the same process was used on the Antibody costumes. One set of Exxilon rags was coated in red dye to distinguish it as belong to the Exxilon priest.

'The Monster of Peladon'

Costume Design by Barbara Kidd

Kidd designed a new costume for Pertwee's Doctor, consisting of an emerald velvet smoking jacket with black lining in the lapels, and worn with a frilly green shirt. For what it's worth, I think this is my personal favorite of Pertwee's outfits, alongside the purple suit Hazel Pethig designed in 'Planet of the Daleks'.
Keeping with the purple theme established by Barbara Lane in 'The Curse of Peladon', Kidd designed a golden dress for Nina Thomas as the queen Thalira, with two purple cloaks also made; the first cloak is made of a shiny patterned fabric, while the second is made up of purple furs.
The queen is always flanked by a maid, wearing a lilac dress, with a gold-lined panel around the waist and translucent material aroun the collar. Judging by the design of the collar matching the queen's golden dress, this was most likely made for the production.
A purple and golden robe was also made for Frank Gatliff as Ortron, with fur lining around the collar; the robe is also worn with purple gloves, as well as a chain fitted with see-through plastic segments. The below publicity photos show off the striped pattern of the costume's sleeves better than the videotape quality of the screenshots.
The armor worn by Rex Robinson as Gebek was no doubt made for the production, though the rest of his costume (as well as the other rebelling miners) is just cobbled up bought clothes, with riding chaps minimally altered with strips of fur!

I also feel the armor and helmets worn by the Peladon soldiers presumably were also made for the production, as they don't match any historical armor I know of; definitely not Greek or Roman.

A more 'futuristic' costume was made for Donald Gee as the engineer Eckersley; I feel the jumpsuit was made for the production, due to both its shiny material as well as the rounded collar. It doesn't resemble any kind of commercially available work overall or racing jumpsuit.

Costume Reuse note: The jumpsuit was reused (and altered with strips of red and white material around the collar and cuffs) in the later serial 'The Armageddon Factor', worn by Barry Jackson.

'Planet of the Spiders'

Costume Design by L. Rowland-Warne

For Pertwee's swansong serial, Rowland-Warne clad him in a new velvet smoking jacket, this one being black with pale grey lining and curved lapels.
The costumes of the Metebelis 3 natives were designed with a slightly Native American look with the diamond patterns, especially clear in the peach pants and vest worn by Ralph Arliss as Tuar.
The other Metebelis 3 colonists wear tunics with similar diamond patterns around the collars and trouser cuffs, in a variety of colours; Gareth Hunt as Arak is distinguished with the v-neck collar lined with white fur.
The Metebelis 3 colonists are enslaved by the ‘Eight-Legs’ who use controlled humans as their servants; the Eight-Leg servants wear uniforms of blue pantaloons and sash belts, with vests lined with furred shoulder pads, topped off with what look like blue taqiyah hats. The vests are made of a material that resembles cobwebs, fitting as the Eight-Legs are mutated spiders.
Additionally, the script also called for traditional Tibetan costumes to be worn by Kevin Lindsay and George Cormack as Cho-je and K'anpo. It's most likely that these were made by Rowland-Warne, due to the lack of depictions of Tibet (let alone accurate Tibetan costuming) in British film & television at the time.
Note: Any information about the bespoke-made contemporary costumes made for Katy Manning is sourced from Doctor Who Magazine Special 52: Costume Design Special Issue.