Showing posts with label Julie Weiss. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Julie Weiss. Show all posts

Friday 2 February 2024

Recycled Movie Costume Mysteries: Where Did Cyborg's Costumes Come From?

The late Albert Pyun was a director adept at working within the confines of a low budget; this made him a mainstay for Menahem Golan's Cannon Group, the company behind 1989's Jean Claud Van-Damme vehicle Cyborg, made during the company's twilight years. Golan's attempts to break into the 'respectable' Hollywood market only resulted in hastening the company's decline, thanks to a series of expensive (by Cannon standards) flops such as Superman IV: The Quest for Peace and Masters of the Universe.

The genesis of Cyborg was Pyun being hired to direct two movies that ultimately that never were made; the prospected Spider-Man movie, and a sequel to Masters of the Universe; judging from Pyun's interviews and leaked scripts, it seems that the former would have been the more expensive movie. Filming took place at Screen Gems Studios in Wilmington, North Carolina, as it would be cheaper to film outside of Los Angeles; this required the construction of elaborate 'New York' street sets for Peter Parker's life in Spider Man. These sets were to be also used for Masters of the Universe II which like the first it would have been mostly set on Earth; Pyun's plan was to shoot the two movies back-to-back, using one set for both pictures and saving Cannon money.

Disaster struck when both Marvel and Mattel revoked their deals with Cannon; several million dollars had been spent constructing the New York sets in Wilmington, and now it was all for nothing; Pyun ultimately made the best of it by deciding to repurpose the sets for an original post-apocalyptic action script he had; some work still had to be done transforming the New York set into a dilapidated war-zone, with of course extra location shooting at various abandoned industrial locations to help sell that this all took place after an apocalypse.

What has always baffled me though, is that Pyun has regularly said that costumes were also constructed for the Spider-Man and MOTU II that never were, and this has gone on to become an oft-repeated fact about Cyborg; yet the leaked scripts for Spider-Man and MOTU II don't really make it seem like costumes would have been made for either production. The former would have only required costumes for Spidey himself; the latter production would have been almost entirely set on Earth with Skeletor possessing a human industrialist, and what few scenes on Eternia surely would have just reused the first film's costumes?

Adding more doubt is that none of Cyborg's costumes feel like they came from or belong in any superhero or fantasy movies; the bulk of the cast are all clad in the usual post-apocalyptic trampy gear. Dirtied up shirts, leather jackets, sweatpants, sports armor, combat fatigues, and so on; nothing akin to the DIY brilliance of Norma Moriceau's work on the Mad Max films.

What few costumes in Cyborg weren't just dirtied up contemporary gear? First would be the outfit worn by Vincent Klyn as the film's antagonist, wasteland bandit Fender Tremolo; his shirt with its puffy, doublet-like sleeves, wide collar lapels and a streaked fabric has an anachronistic feeling. It could have been bespoke made by Cyborg's costume designer Heidi Kaczenski, but it could also have been a thrifted bit of obnoxious 80s fashion that was altered to appear ragged. And perhaps, it could have been reused from another production, but if so from what?
One thing is for sure; the chainmail vest and wristguards were not made for Vincent Klyn; they were reused from the costume designed by Julie Weiss to be worn by Anthony De Longis as Blade in the first Masters of the Universe, with the Skeletor crest removed. Additionally, some armor pieces made for one of Skeletor's soldiers in that film also turned up in Cyborg, worn by one of Fender's goons over dirtied up contemporary clothing. This lends credence that MOTU II would not have had costumes made for it, as the original film's costumes were still ready to go!
Some minor parts also break the film's general costume design sense; Ralf Moller wears a leather harness fitted with chains, Dayle Haddon wears a tattered tan robe, and two of Fender's bandits wear stitched leather tops; however, these don't resemble anything from either the Masters of the Universe film or the original toyline. The real origin for can be inferred from the vest worn by the unnamed bartender Van Damme talks to in one brief scene; it was originally made by Ann & John Bloomfield for 1984's Conan the Destroyer, worn by Tracey Walter.
Conan the Destroyer, and Conan the Barbarian before it, had dozens of costumes made for background performers; the drab fabrics and leather of the reused outfits below feel like they would have originated in either film; given one costume definitely was reused from Conan, why not the few other anachronistic costumes? Italian post-apocalyptic films in particular were notorious for reusing costumes from the peplum wardrobe; Cyborg was a rare example of an American production doing this trick.
However, Cyborg had a few costumes leaning more to the 'futuristic' angle; sticking out among the hordes of tramps is the silvery plastic vest worn by Jean Claude Van-Damme himself, the same material coating the football armor worn by one of Fender's bandits. This again doesn't feel like a reuse of any potential MOTU II costumes; more likely costume designer Heidi Kaczenski thought to add some futuristic detail to Van Damme's costume, and thought to use some of the leftover material on a bit-part player.
In addition, several soldiers wear what are clearly off-the-shelf jumpsuits minimally altered with strips of shiny black dotted rubber - NOT the same material used for the silvery plastic vests above - with their officer wearing over his jumpsuit a black sheet cut to be a gown. His jumpsuit has seemingly been altered to have a panel of the rubber material over the chest - this is very, very cheap costume design, and doesn't indicate that they had costumes to reuse from a more expensive production.
The only strong contenders for a Cyborg costume possibly originating from MOTU II are the helmets that are only seen very briefly in Cyborg; looking remniscient of knight armor, I could imagine them being worn by Eternian characters; but this could also just be a coincidence. Again, several suits of armor and uniforms were made for the first Masters of the Universe, so there would have been no need to make more for a sequel mostly taking place on Earth.

The helmets very brief usage in the final film is also bizarre as usually when it comes to low budget films you show off everything you've got. But perhaps they were shown more in a scene that ended up on the cutting room floor? Or maybe most of the cast could not wear the helmets due to size limits; it's hard to say. Nothing confirms that these were definitely reused or not.
But maybe the real answer is that nothing actually was reused from either Spider Man or MOTU II as no costumes worth reusing were made for either film , due to being contemporary, lower budget productions. Perhaps the reality of reusing the expensive Spider Man sets, and Heidi Kaczenski's reuse of costumes from fantasy films like Masters of the Universe and Conan the Destroyer, blurred in Pyun's memory.

Cyborg's near-future, apocalyptic setting would have limited what sort of costumes could have been reused for the production, hence why only very few costumes in the final film are reused from other productions. This would still have been hard work for the costume department, as all the utilitarian, contemporary clothing they bought would have needed to be severely weathered to transform into wasteland garb.

The shooting of Cyborg was a harrowing experience for Pyun; the miniscule budget, urgent redressing of existing sets and extra location shooting, Van Damme's bad behaviour on-set (resulting in a cast member losing an eye!), and the usual pressures of working under Golan & Globus (the latter throwing a stapler at Pyun as a way to show disapproval for his ideas); of course the finer details would be lost.

Unless any costume polaroids showing the costume tests for Pyun's Spider-Man and MOTU II ever materialize, or Fender's jacket is auctioned showing how many performers wore the costume, we'll never truly know. But it can be safe to assume that, for the most part, no costumes in Cyborg were reused from other films, and what few were did not originate from either of these cancelled projects.

Friday 18 February 2022

Masters of the Universe (1987)

Costume Design by: Julie Weiss ( notable efforts: Spacehunter: Adventures in the Forbidden Zone (1983), Wicked Stepmother (1989), Twelve Monkeys (1995), Frida (2002), Blades of Glory (2007), Hitchcock (2012) )

The Cannon Group's infamously cheesy attempt to ride on Star Wars' fame by making a movie on a toy line, Masters of the Universe for sure occupies a similar niche as most of the films deemed to be 'Star Wars ripoffs', thought also does feel a little bit like the famous Flash Gordon movie albeit without as much of the humor. In a similar manner to Star Wars, the costumes were based mostly on production artwork, mostly by the renowned William Stout, and had to be realized on-screen by costume designer Julie Weiss. The costume for He-Man (Dolph Lundgren) isn't really worth covering because, well, it's not much of a costume is it, whilst Man at Arms (Jon Cypher) wears a rather dull armored getup similar to the ones sported by many a generic space soldier, and there's some ugly gnome in a gown. It is Teela (Chelsea Field) who wears the most distinctive costume of the main cast, wearing a grey spandex bodysuit with an ornate collar and straps around it - I wonder if this wasn't actually inspired by Ralph McQuarrie's costume sketches for Princess Leia in the original Star Wars, mind.
More striking however, is the dress worn by the Sorceress (Christine Pickles), which is a classic 'fantasy' queen design, being a white and silver dress with streamers of fabric running down, raised shoulders, and of course a headdress crown adorned with several shards to resemble a crystal - feels remniscient of most popular depictions of the Snow Queen of the Hans Christian Anderson fairytale, and similar archetypes.
The the rest of the more striking costumes of the film are worn by the villains, with a highlight being Evil-Lyn's (Meg Foster) dress, consisting of a patterned bodysuit of a slightly translucent material being worn under a leather skirt and golden armor, worn with a large cape with golden plates fixed to the shoulders - this is completed with a necklace of dark red crystal beads, and an ornate golden headdress.
Under Evil-Lyn's command are several mercenaries and soldiers, though out of all of them the only one that I feel is worthy of inclusion is Karg (Robert Towers), who sports a silver padded jumpsuit with golden lined chest armor and wristguards, but the weirdest detail to this costume has to be the Tudor ruff collar worn over the armor, as well as the short furred cape! The other minions in the film aren't really worth covering in my opinion - Saurod and Beast Man are more in the realm of creature effects, whilst Blade (Anthony De Longis) just wears a fairly generic chainmail vest (that was reused in the infamous Albert Pyun scifi action film Cyborg, a few years later!) and armor pads, and the various soldiers are just in jet-black armor that feels like a rehash of the various armored troopers of Star Wars.
Perhaps the most infamous aspect of the film is Skeletor (Frank Lagella), whose hammy performance and prosthetic makeup alone push an already cheesy film into deeply camp territory - Skeletor's costume is ultimately another spandex bodysuit with chest armor and a leather kilt-like garment worn over it. It is the kilt and armor that especially are the highlight, with the former having several square segments stuck on, as well as a pair of leather straps trailing down to the feet and also having similar segments attached to it.
Much more striking is the outfit briefly worn in the movie's finale, when Skeletor has became a god, and as such his costume changes from its glossy black colour scheme to being a shining gold - but is otherwise the same costume minus the addition of a wonderfully ornate helmet. A lot of recent scifi and fantasy costume design tries so badly to be 'detailed' and instead ends up fiddly and overdesigned, but to me this helmet really is over the top without being messy - but again this is personal preference! Sadly, I could not find a higher resolution image of the costume as it appears today, so it's just the screenshots of its brief appearance. Also, this wouldn't be the only time costume designer Julie Weiss worked with an all-gold costume...