Saturday, 30 January 2021

Buck Rogers in the 25th Century (1979)

Costume Design by Jean-Pierre Dorléac

A very 1970s update of the 1930s space opera, Buck Rogers in the 25th Century was produced by Glen A. Larson almost straight after he had realized Battlestar Galactica, and like that previous series, opened with a pilot movie. For context, this entry is only about the original pilot movie, and the series' costumes will be covered in a pair of follow-up posts.

The good guys are the 'Earth Defense Directorate' protecting the planet from intergalactic threats, with the titular William 'Buck' Rogers (Gil Gerard) and female lead Wilma Deering (Erin Gray) among their ranks - their spandex uniforms are worn with white boots, a popped collar and lining around the chest. It is worn with an armband of the Directorate's rainbow insignia, designed by production artist William Stout. The uniform is sometimes worn with a sleek futuristic helmet. The uniforms were phased out in the follow-up series due to Gerard putting on weight.

The Defense Directorate is led by Dr Elias Huer (Tim O'Connor), who is distinguished by wearing a ridged white jacket, with a similar collar design, worn over the same spandex pants and boots worn by the other members of the Directorate - like the standard uniform, this would also be worn in a few episodes of the subsequent television series, before being replaced with new costumes.
The cast take part in a very, very 1970s 'futuristic' dance party sequence; the Directorate officers attending wear a dress uniform consisting of a buttoned jacket worn over their spandex pants; the pants are worn with leather boots, and a red sash is worn around the waist. Huer's jacket is cut to be more like a coat.
The women dancers in the party are dressed in differently coloured versions of the same general design, which like the Directorate dress uniforms combines the past with futuristic flourishes, as the dresses all have large collars and sleeves fixed with streaming ribbon strips, whilst being worn with a rounded hat also fixed with ribbons.
Opposing Earth is the Draconian Empire, whose royal princess Ardala (Pamela Hensley) happens to be clad in some of the film's most lavish outfits - Ardala is first seen in a reddish nightgown whose cuffs and collar have been fixed with a shiny black material, worn with a beautiful black crown-like headpiece consisting of dangling black jewellery.
Ardala's second outfit is sadly not seen fully in the film; a gold-lined black kimono-like robe, with additional golden markings all over. The robe is worn with the same crown-like headpiece as the red nightgown, as well as a black choker fixed with a jewel.
Another outfit of Ardala's that sadly does not get much screentime is this rather revealing purple and silver dress, which is worn with a massive collar that itself has been adorned with jewel-like pieces, and is worn with a very ornate (and rather abstract) headdress that has purple gems hanging down from the front.
The last of Ardala's outfits consists of a white and gold bikini and pants. The pants are fixed with necklace-like jewellery going down to the feet, and the biking is worn with a fur-lined cape and horned headdress. The headdress's horns (themselves adorned with hanging jewellery) are coated in golden lining, and attached to a golden wig with fur around the sides of the horns. Also note the collar of Ardala's dress, designed to resemble a flower.
Ardala also has handmaidens attending to her, all of them wearing golden headdresses and midriff-baring short tops with white skirts.
Ardala's father, King Draco (Joseph Wiseman), is only barely seen in the theatrical cut, wearing a golden tunic worn with a large fur coat, and a crown consisting of glass-like plates, that is similar in design to the headdress worn by Ardala with her third dress. Unfortunately, this does feel racist, and I worry that 'yellowface' makeup may have been applied to Wiseman for the role.
Helping Ardala is her surly aide, Kane (Henry Silva), first seen in a relatively simple mottled black tunic, worn with a large belt and with golden pieces fitted on the collars. The tunic is worn with black trousers and boots.
Kane's second outfit is of the same cut but made out of a gold patterned material, worn with the same belt and trousers - this outfit in particular was altered by costume designer Al Lehman in the follow-up series, adding black piping to the shoulders and collar. This tunic is worn with the same trousers and boots as the earlier design.
Ardala's bodyguard is the Tigerman (Duke Butler) who wears a vest and pants both coated in imitation tiger fur (according to auction listings for the costume), worn with a necklace consisting of metal pieces and bones, and a red sash. His trousers have golden kneepads, and he is wearing pointed shoes slightly reminiscent of 'crakow' shoes.
These same shoes are worn by other Draconian minions, such as the briefly seen technicians who wear burgundy tunics emblazoned with an emblem on the chest.
The Draconian Empire's soldiers wear futuristic spins on samurai armor, with the helmets fitted with goggles and golden chest armor; the large waistband was not worn in the TV series, and is only seen better thanks to costume auction photos.

Wednesday, 23 December 2020

Stargate (1994)

Costume Design by:

- Joseph Porro ( notable efforts: Fright Night Part 2 (1988), Tombstone (1993), Super Mario Bros. (1993), Mighty Morphin Power Rangers: The Movie (1995), The Thirteenth Floor (1999) )

Costume Design Genre: Futuristic, Period-Influenced

The film that would eventually be adapted into several long-running TV series, Roland Emmerich's Stargate played with the concept of 'ancient astronauts' being responsible for ancient cultures, in particular Ancient Egypt - in terms of costumes this made for some appealing designs inspired by the fashions of the time period with a scifi flair, with Joseph Porro assigned as the film's costume designer.

The film is mostly set on an unnamed desert world in 'the Kalium galaxy' whose residents are dressed in a pastiche of Middle Eastern garb, in beige and tan gowns and scarves with threaded pieces worn around their necks, all very drab and not worth covering. The most complex costumes to be worn by the tribe are the gowns of the tribal elders, in particular the one worn by Kasuf (Erick Avari), who is in a flowing purple gown with a threaded piece around the chest and shoulders, and worn with a detailed rounded hat fixed with flowing trails of fabric - noticeable, the collar piece has two diagonal lined pieces at each side, the one aspect of the film's futuristic design sense present on the tribe.






The design highlights of the film however, are the various robes and detailed headpieces worn by the evil alien Ra (Jaye Davidson) and his various servants, with their costume inspiration being deeply influence by these of the royalty of Ancient Egypt. Ra's first outfit is a magnificent robe of blue and purple, worn with a metallic corset-like piece on the chest, and of course the the large mask based on the designs of the death masks found on deceased phoroahs, in particular the Mask of Tutankhamun - the mask in particular is an especially impressive bit of design work - whilst the costumes were designed by Porro, the various ornate masks were designed by Patrick Tatopoulos, who was assigned them in the costume & wardrobe department.









Ra's second outfit is not seen for long, but is a white robe with ridged golden lining worn with a similar corset and dress, with this robe having much large space for the shoulders.








Ra's third outfit is designed very similar to his first one, with the robes here a different colour scheme of lilac and blue with golden zig-zag lining, and worn with a rounded collar piece as well as the pharoah death mask again.









Ra's last outfit is perhaps the most splendid yet, a flowing shiny black robe, adorned with silver linings and a collar piece with orange jewel-like pieces (in the shape of scarabs) embedded on it, attached with a horned sun disk fixture on the back. This robe is mostly only seen in close-ups, which doesn't really show just how large and detailed it actually was.









Ra's servants are all in a variety of collar pieces, loinclothes, dresses and headpieces, all in a variety of coloured patterns, noticeably blue, orange, purple and even rainbow patterns, with the collars and headpieces in particular having golden fixtures embedded on them.









The film's most famous design is the uniform of Anubis (Carlos Lauchu), the commander of Ra's personal guard, and is the most futuristic design of the film. The headpiece is a metallic fixture designed to Tatopoulos to resemble the jackal head of the Egyptian god, but is also a mechanical fixture which had an animatronic version built for it in the various close-up shots, with the animatronic mask having blue light-up eyes. The rest of the costume is a metallic collar piece worn over a ridged cyan top and purple skirt, as well as a metallic skullcap with cyan and purple fixed on the sides. Noticeable, the gloves worn by Anubis are also very detailed, with a blue 'jewel' piece as well as clawed finger pieces.










Under Anubis' command is his lieutenant Horus (Djimon Hounsou) who along with the other guards is dressed almost identically to Anubis, with the exception being the shirts are plain white instead, and also instead of metallic jackal masks it is a metallic hawk mask, this one also having animatronic versions built for the close-ups (and the hawk mask 'eyes' having red lights). Like Anubis, Horus' skullcap has ribbons hanging from the sides, to show his rank compared to the rest of the guards.