Monday, 1 September 2025

Doctor Who - Season 22 (1985)

'Attack of the Cybermen'

Costume Design by Anushia Nieradzik

Anushia Nieradzik's costuming duties mostly went to the Cryons, a race of crystalline aliens. All the Cryon performers were women, and so Nieradzike made a set of bodysuits coated in panels of pearlescent material.

The bodysuits were adorned with plastic cuffs and collars to complement the prosthetic makeups.

A mesh cape coated in panels of iridescent fabrics was also made for Faith Brown to wear as the Cryon Flast.
The Cybermen costumes utilized the same jumpsuits originally made for 'Earthshock' and altered for reuse in 'The Five Doctors'. A sleeveless silver jumpsuit was custom-made for Maurice Colbourne to wear as the incomplete Cybermen Lytton, with a chestplate and helmet supplied by Richard Gregory's Imagineering.
Another jumpsuit was tailored for Boris Kilgareff to play the Cybercontroller, with a new domed helmet fabricated by Imagineering.

The reason for a new jumpsuit was partly thanks to Kilgareff having put on weight since his last appearance as the Cybercontroller in 1967's 'Tomb of the Cybermen'.

Incidentally, that was a role where he was masked and had his voice dubbed over by Peter Hawkins, which begs the question of why they hired him to replay the role in 1985...

'Vengeance on Varos'

Costume Design by Annie Hardinge

As this serial was set on a militarized, dystopian prison colony, Annie Hardinge had to design several variants of futuristic uniforms. The uniform worn by Martin Jarvis as the Governer is a Prussian-influenced design made of grey leather with black lining. Jarvis' Governer costume was tailored by the Dennis & Shirley Fitzgerald costumiers, judging by the tag seen in its auction listing at The Prop Gallery.
A similarly Prussian-influenced leather uniform was made for Nicolas Chagrin as Quillam, with red lining rather than the black lining on Jarvis' uniform. A mask was also made for Chagrin to wear, that he could take off to show the disfiguring makeup, in a similar manner to The Phantom of the Opera.

Presumably, this costume was also tailored by the Dennis & Shirley Fitzgerald costumiers, while the mask was made by the BBC's Visual Effects Department.

A set of black uniforms were designed by Hardinge and made at the BBC's Wardrobe Department for Forbes Collins and assorted cast members to wear as the Chief Officer and his security troops. The uniforms consisted of double-breasted jackets made of wool with faux-leather panelling down the front and over the shoulders.

The uniforms were complemented with a set of futuristic helmets made by the BBC's Visual Effects Department, as well as a set of futuristic necklaces.

(In-Vision, a magazine I grow to loathe with every Doctor Who article I update, erroneously claims the helmets were the Dalek Trooper helmets made by Richard Gregory's Imagineering for 'Resurrection of the Daleks' the previous year. How were In-Vision's writers fine with spreading so much misinformation?)

The visored helmet seen in the first image below, however, does seem to be a reuse of one of the helmets Imagineering had supplied for 'Earthshock'.

Another set of uniforms were made at the BBC's Wardrobe Department for the performers playing assorted other Varos personnel. The double-breasted jackets have a short cut, wide shoulders and are worn with a hat modeled on older models of ski caps, keeping with the Prussian influence for the dystopian uniforms.
Hardinge also designed a female Varos uniform, consisting of a double-breasted jacket and trousers made out of brown leather, or at least a leather-like material.
A pair of single-breasted uniforms were made, one black with grey lining and one brown with black lining, for Stephen Yardley as Arak and Jason Connery as Jondar respectively. Connery's jacket has no sleeves.

I feel the overalls worn by the body disposal technicians were also custom-made, due to the vinyl lining down the front, shoulders and pockets, as well as the caps similar to the grey uniform's ski caps.

Costume Reuse Note: I don't know if the harnesses and Trojan helmets worn by Sil's bodyguards were custom-made for the serial or not, but they definitely were reused in the following year's serial 'Mindwarp'.

'The Mark of the Rani'

Costume Design by Dinah Collin

As this serial was set in the early Victorian era, the period costumes worn by the guest cast were no doubt all hires, and presumably so were Colin Baker's and Kate O'Mara's Victorian garb as each character's disguises.

However, I feel that the light pink dress and yellow jacket worn by Nicola Bryant as Peri, the Doctor's companion, were designed and custom-made by Dinah Collin for the serial. While she does not get into detail, Collin implies in an interview printed in issue #103 of Doctor Who Magazine, that Peri's look was designed. The dress and jacket both have the same style of shoulders, each having a reverse colour scheme.

Collin also was tasked with designing Kate O'Mara's look as the villainous Rani. While the leather trousers could have been bought, I feel the wide-shouldered colourful jacket was custom-made for O'Mara.

'The Two Doctors'

Costume Design by Jan Wright

A new addition to Colin Baker's Doctor wardrobe was made by the costume department due to the many scenes shot on location in Spain. This new garment was a custom-made waistcoat, made up from cut up Hawaiian shirts. Hawaiian shirts were favored by producer John Nathan-Turner.
A v-neck blouse was also custom-made for Nicola Bryant to wear, made of multi-coloured metallic taffeta with pink cotton lining on the inside. A bra and headband of the same fabric were also made for Bryant. The blue shorts were no doubt a bought item however.
Amusingly enough, a shirt made of a similar material was also made by the BBC's Wardrobe Department during filming of the serial, as a gift for producer John Nathan-Turner. While it never actually appeared in the show itself, I opted to include it due to its connection.
For John Stratton's role as the 'Androgum' Shockeye, Wright designed and made a red wraparound shirt, with one sleeve short and another sleeve with frilly cuffs, and a pair of brown baggy pantaloons and wraparound hat. The pantaloons and shirt's collar have the same cut, indicating the outfit was custom-made for Stratton.

The pantaloons and hat also are made of a matching fabric, though I wonder if the belt's worn around Stratton's waist and arm were also custom-made as well.

For Laurence Payne's role as the alien scientist Dastari, Wright designed a futuristic suit, consisting of a jacket and trousers made out of a shiny, silvery printed fabric.
For Jacqueline Pearce's role as the advanced Androgum Chessene, Jan Wright designed a futuristic dress made out of a metallic silvery fabric, with a tabard coated in a vine-like pattern over it. The Chessene costume was made by the costumier Alexander Carey, according to The Prop Gallery's listing.
Jan Wright also designed and made the futuristic jumpsuits worn by Clinton Greyn and Tim Raynham as the Sontarans Stike and Varl. It was not an option to reuse the Sontaran jumpsuit originally designed by James Acheson for 'The Time Warrior', nor the imitations made by Dee Robson for 'The Invasion of Time'.

The original 'Time Warrior' costume was in too poor a condition to be filmed thanks to years of use at various exhibitions, and both the 'Time Warrior' and 'Invasion of Time' costumes were far too heavy to be used for location filming in Spain, or it would have caused the actors to have a heat stroke.

Wright's new Sontaran costumes were made of a thinner fabric with a more glittery sheen and silver armbands sewn around the elbows. The helmets and collars were made by Richard Gregory's Imagineering.

Costume Reuse Note: The original 'Time Warrior' Sontaran costume was reused for 'The Two Doctors', briefly worn in the scene where the Sontarans are killed, to be coated in slime and other nasty detritus.

Costume Reuse Note #2: Patrick Troughton's costume as the second Doctor was a reuse of the costume Colin Lavers had provided for him in 'The Five Doctors', as was Frazer Hines' costume as Jamie.

Hines' 'Five Doctors' costume itself was hired wardrobe stock, and presumably his first Highland costume in 'The Two Doctors' also was reused period wardrobe stock.

'Timelash'

Costume Design by Alun Hughes

While most of Hughes' costuming duties went to the guest cast's futuristic costumes, I suspect that Hughes designed the burgundy top worn by Nicola Bryant for the serial. The asymmetrical cut and odd fabric choice just make me doubt it was a bought item.
When it came to the cast members playing the planet Karfel, Hughes opted for a wide-shouldered, baggy look to their costumes. For Jeananne Crowley's role as Vena, Hughes designed and made a mauve-coloured gown with baggy sleeves, and golden streks down the collar.
For the men of Karfel, Hughes designed and made several baggy white tunics and pants that was stitched into folds, which helped give each of the cast an individual look. Whoever was playing Karfel's chosen leader would wear a black cape that was presumably also made by the costume department.
A set of similarly baggy uniforms with wide collars were made for Karfel's resistance members, with the grey and brown colouration giving them a more militaristic feeling.
For the extras playing Karfel's soldiers, Hughes designed and made a set of two-piece beige uniforms consisting of a zip-up jacket and trousers, worn with a domed helmet and face mesh.
Hughes designed two futuristic jumpsuits for the Karfel androids to wear; one for Dean Hollingsworth to wear, and one to be placed on a special effects dummy. The jumpsuits were cut from a pastel coloured fabric, with tubed padding around the neck and shoulders.
Hughes' last costuming duty was for Robert Ashby's turn as the monstrous Borad. Hughes designed and made a baggy, shapeless coat out of a black canvas-like material, to imply the Borad's body shape was not human. The suit was coated in dirt and paint to give it a filthy, soaked appearance.
Costume Reuse Note: The period costume worn by David Chandler as Herbert was presumably BBC Wardrobe Department stock, as was the monk habit worn by Denis Carey as the Borad's 'Old Man' disguise.

'Revelation of the Daleks'

Costume Design by Pat Godfrey

The season's final serial had a very low costume budget. For the performers playing the workers staffing the future mortuary Tranquil Repose, Pat Godfrey made some rudimentary skull caps to go with the bought dentist smocks. The smocks were dyed in shades of pale blue.

The only exceptions were the smocks worn by Clive Swift as Jobel, and Hugh Walters as Vogel. Swift's dyed smock had golden threading stuck on the sides to show his character's role as the 'chief embalmer', and Walters' smock was dyed beige instead of blue.

Costume Reuse Note: The mutant seen earlier in the serial appears to be wearung a tunic originally made by Godfrey for 'The Twin Dillema' the previous year, hidden under the tabard-like garment. I feel the futuristic ceremonial belts and sashes worn by the Tranquil Repose staff were also stock items.

A set of futuristic helmets were made (by either the BBC's Visual Effects Department or by Richard Gregory's Imagineering) for the extras playing Tranquil Repose's security guards. Like the workers, the guards also are wearing dyed dentist smocks, as well as bought respirators.

At least one of these helmets resides in Neil Cole's Museum of Classic Sci-Fi.

The only costume that was definitely made for the serial's guest cast was the plum-coloured crushed velvet dress made for Eleanor Bron as Kara. The dress is worn with a custom-made turban, and the collar is fitted with a collar, evoking evil fairytale queens.

Costume Reuse Note: Judging by the collar, pockets and buttoning, the khaki uniform worn by John Ogwen as Bostock is one of the imitation 'Type 65' Chinese uniforms originally seen in 1974's The Man With the Golden Gun, with the red collar patches removed (and no hat!).

I feel the blue coat and beret worn by Nicola Bryant as Peri was custom-made, due to the matching hat and coat colour, as well as the slightly odd cut it has.
Godfrey's biggest contribution to the serial was to design and make a cape for Colin Baker's Doctor, whose costume she had originally designed in 'The Twin Dillemma'. At least two capes were made, a 'hero' cape, and a stunt cape to be coated in fake blood.

The cape is made of blue wool, with lighter blue panelling around the shoulders. The cape is adorned with golden lining, with the hook fasteners shaped into question marks.

Sunday, 31 August 2025

Doctor Who - Season 8 (1971)

'Terror of the Autons'

Costume Design by Ken Trew

One of Ken Trew's main tasks was to revamp Pertwee's costume; Trew's new look consisted of a maroon velvet smoking jacket with black cord piping, and worn with a black Inverness cape lined with purple silk. From this point on, Pertwee's various jackets and capes would be tailored for his role in the series.
Ken Trew also designed a nehru-style suit for Roger Delgado as The Master; the jacket has lining embroidered around the cuffs, and one pocket on the chest. Delgado would wear this costume in many later serials.
Trew also designed the garish outfits worn by the disguised Autons, including the masks. The masks were custom-made by the BBC'S Visual Effects Department, while the rest of the costume consisted of bought items.

Costume Reuse note: In an earlier scene, extras playing Autons are wearing silver boots with their bought overalls, and once again the silver boots were originally part of Cybermen costumes! This time, it was the silver painted wellies worn as part of the Cybermen costumes in 'Tomb of the Cybermen'.

'The Mind of Evil'

Costume Design by Bobi Bartlett

Bobi Bartlett designed and made a leather jacket for Katy Manning, with shoulder straps and a large open collar. For most of the serial, the jacket is worn unzipped. The rest of the outfit was bought items.

(Most of Manning's costumes as Jo Grant were clothes bought from the Biba fashion chain, but some of her costumes were designed and bespoke-made by the assigned costume designer)

'The Claws of Axos'

Costume Design by Barbara Lane

Barbara Lane was tasked with realizing the alien Axons of the title; for their humanoid forms, Lane came up with a onesie made up of a mottled yellow and white material, evoking an organic appearance.

'Colony in Space'

Costume Design by Michael Burdle

Michael Burdle was tasked with having to realize a story set on another planet in the future; however, the focus on a group of struggling colonists meant that mostly drab workwear could be used to clothe most of the cast. I suspect the assorted leather vests were wardrobe stock.

Costume Reuse Note: The futuristic purple vest worn by Nicholas Pennell as Winston is one of the security guard vests made for 'The Seeds of Death' a few years earlier.

The colonists are at war with the Interplanetary Mining Corporation whose solders wear black and red zip-up jackets with red panelling over the shoulders and a mottled grey-black panel around the chest. The jacket is worn with jackboots, gloves and helmets altered with bands of red lining.

The Master turns up as an 'Adjudicator', wearing a robe with golden lining around the shoulder boards and a raised collar; very Ming the Merciless!
The Time Lords, briefly seen at the serial's beginning, wear robes with a circular collar pieces in white, grey and black; the actors are shot either at a distance or in extreme close-ups, preventing the costumes being seen clearly. Given the serial's low budget, I wonder if only the collars and tabards were made.
The alien priests of the planet Uxarieus wear very rudimentary costumes, consisting of a sheet with a raised Ming the Merciless-style collar coated in stones; emphasizing the primitive nature of the aliens.
Burdle also made a set of rudimentary loinclothes for the Uxarieus tribesman, to go over the painted spandex onesies which were also Burdle's responsibility...
...and also the little Greco-Roman inspired costume worn by the Uxareius 'Guardian' puppet! Yes quite often, puppets need costumes made for them too!

'The Daemons'

Costume Design by Barbara Lane

A suede suit was designed and made by Barbara Lane for Katy Manning to wear in this serial; the rest of the costume's components past the jacket and trousers were bought.
A simple, though smartly cut, white sacrificial gown was also made for Manning to wear in the final episode; I presume this was made for the production if only for how Manning's main costume was, as well as the fantastical nature of the serial's plot.
Lane also made the Satanist priest robe worn by the Master for the serial's supernatural happenings, behind the scenes photos show off the golden checker pattern of the lining, as well as the 'Greek key' pattern of the red fabric. His cultist minions are just in medieval monk habits reused from wardrobe stock.

(Don McKillop's strange costume coated in strips of newspaper presumably consisted of bought items, that were then altered with bits of newspaper stuck on!)

Note: the information about the bespoke-made contemporary costumes made for Katy Manning is sourced from Doctor Who Magazine Special 52: Costume Design Special Issue.